If you ask any local in Split where to get the best view of the city, nobody will mention the cathedral bell tower. They will all say the same word: Vidilica. It is the small viewpoint terrace halfway up Marjan Hill, the forested peninsula on the western edge of the Old Town. From Vidilica you see the entire Roman palace below, the Riva, the harbor, and Brac island shimmering on the horizon. It is the best free panorama in Split.
This guide covers everything you need to know about Marjan Hill: how to get up there, which trails are worth your time, where the hidden spots are, when to come, and what to skip. We drive guests up to Vidilica several times a day on our open-top tours and we have answered every possible question about this hill.
What Is Marjan Hill, Exactly?
Marjan is a 178-meter-tall pine-covered peninsula that forms the western edge of Split. It has been a protected nature park since 1964, but its story goes back further. In the 13th century, Christian hermits carved chapels and dwellings directly into the cliffs on the south face. Some of those chapels are still standing, including Saint Nicholas (15th century) and Saint Jerome (16th century). The forest itself was planted by the Marjan Society in the late 1800s. Before that, the hill was bare karst rock.
For locals, Marjan is the city lung. People come here to run before work, walk dogs in the evening, escape August heat, and propose marriage at sunset. For visitors, the value is the viewpoints, the hermitage caves, the trails, and the lookout chapels along the south face.
The Vidilica Viewpoint: What Makes It Special
Vidilica is the first major viewpoint as you climb from the city. It sits roughly 100 meters above sea level on the eastern slope of Marjan. The terrace has a small cafe-bar (Cafe Vidilica), a few stone benches, and a railing along the cliff edge. From the railing you see:
- The entire Old Town of Split laid out below you, with Diocletian’s Palace clearly visible as a rectangular Roman fortress
- The Riva promenade and the harbor with cruise ships and ferries
- Bacvice beach to the east
- Brac island directly south, often with sailboats between you and it
- The Mosor mountains rising behind the city
Unlike the cathedral bell tower, which only opens during the day and costs money, Vidilica is free and accessible 24 hours. The cafe has its own hours (typically 8am to midnight in summer) but the terrace and railing are public.
How to Get to Vidilica
Three honest options:
Option 1: Walk Up (Free, 25 to 45 Minutes)
Start at the western end of the Riva. Walk past the Mestrovic Gallery direction, then turn right up Senjska street. You will see a long stone staircase that climbs straight up the hillside. This is the main pedestrian route to Vidilica. The stairs end at the terrace.
The walk takes 25 minutes if you are fit and not stopping for photos, 45 minutes if you are taking your time or visiting in summer heat. There is no shade on the lower section. Bring water. Avoid walking up between 11am and 4pm in July or August unless you enjoy sweating through your shirt.
Option 2: Open-Top Bus Tour (Includes Vidilica Stop)
Our 1.5-hour panoramic tour drives the Marjan loop and stops at Vidilica for 10 minutes. Long enough to take photos, grab a coffee at the cafe, and walk back to the bus. This is the easiest option for visitors who do not want to climb stairs in heat, or for older travelers and families with kids. The tour costs 15 euro per adult and includes 17-language audio guide. Check availability here.
To be clear: we are the only open-top bus in Split that stops at Vidilica. The other sightseeing companies (City Sightseeing and the rest) drive past the trailhead but do not stop on the hill. If you specifically want to be driven up, our tour is the option.
Option 3: Taxi or Drive (Limited Parking)
A taxi from the Old Town to Vidilica costs about 8 to 10 euro. Parking near the viewpoint is very limited and in summer it is full by 9am. If you have a rental car, this is not the best option.
Beyond Vidilica: The Rest of Marjan
If you have more time and want to see more than just the first viewpoint, here is what is worth the effort.
Telegrin Peak (178 m, the Summit)
From Vidilica, a marked trail continues west along the ridge. After about 30 minutes of relatively gentle walking, you reach Telegrin, the actual summit of Marjan. There is a giant Croatian flag pole and a 360-degree view that includes the islands to the south and the Adriatic to the west. Most visitors do not make it this far, so it is quiet even in peak summer.
The South-Face Hermitage Chapels
From the summit, a steep trail drops down the south face of Marjan toward the sea. Along this descent are three medieval chapels carved into the rock: Saint Nicholas, Saint Jerome (with hermit cells visible nearby), and Our Lady of Bethlehem. The chapels are usually closed but the exteriors and the views from their terraces are worth the detour. This is the side of Marjan most cruise day-trippers never see.
Beach Bene (West End of the Peninsula)
At the western tip of Marjan, the trail comes down to a small pebble beach called Bene. There is a beach bar in summer, a forest cafe, and surprisingly clear water. This beach is favored by locals over the more famous Bacvice. If you have a half day on Marjan, ending at Bene for a swim is the best way to do it.
Best Time of Day to Come
- Sunrise (5:30am to 7am in summer): Empty, cool, and the morning light hits the cathedral bell tower from behind you. Best photos.
- Mid-morning (9am to 11am): Still relatively quiet. Most tourists are still having breakfast.
- Sunset (8pm to 9pm in summer): Crowded but beautiful. The sun drops behind the western islands. Expect to share the railing with 50 other people.
- Avoid: 12pm to 4pm in July or August. No shade on the climb. The view is the same, but you will not enjoy getting up.
What to Bring
- Water (at least half a liter per person for the climb)
- Real walking shoes or sneakers, not flip-flops or leather soles
- Sun protection if walking between 10am and 5pm
- A few euro in cash for the cafe at the top (cards work but cash is faster)
- Camera or phone with battery left for at least 30 photos. You will take more than you expect.
Marjan Hill FAQs We Get Asked Every Day
Is the climb to Vidilica difficult?
It is mostly stairs, about 250 steps to the terrace. Not technically difficult, but tiring in heat. If you have knee issues or are traveling with small children, take the bus tour instead.
Is Marjan safe at night?
Vidilica itself is busy until midnight in summer because of the cafe. The trails further up are quiet and unlit. We do not recommend hiking past Telegrin after dark.
Can I bring my dog?
Yes, dogs are welcome on Marjan trails on leash. The cafe at Vidilica has a water bowl for dogs.
Is there a fee?
No. Marjan is a public park. Trails, viewpoints, and beaches are free.
Our Recommendation for First-Time Visitors
If you have one day in Split and you want to see Marjan without climbing stairs in heat, take the morning slot of our open-top tour. We drive you up to Vidilica with a 10-minute photo stop, then complete the loop around the Old Town. After the tour you can walk to wherever you want with full orientation of the city. The tour is 15 euro and runs at 11am, 1pm, and 3pm daily from May through October. Book now and pay on arrival.
If you are fit, have half a day, and want the full Marjan experience, walk it. Start at sunrise, climb to Vidilica, continue to Telegrin, descend to the south face chapels, and end at Bene beach for a swim. Total time: 3 to 4 hours including stops. Bring lunch and you have one of the best days a visitor can have in Split.
Keep Reading
More in-depth guides we have written about Split: